LACEIOLI

For those who love hand made lace.

Identification-History

Information

For discussions of lace history and lace identification. You can post a photo into a comment box for a lace you want to discuss. Bobblin lace history. About historic lace. Kinds of lace. Distinguish types of lace.

We can identify a piece of lace for you, but we need good detail. At least one photo with this kind of detail is necessary. Otherwise we are just guessing. A shot of the whole thing is useful because that shows us the style. Style gives us clues to date and possibly geographical origin. But we need the detail shot to tell us how it was made.

Members: 140
Latest Activity: on Friday

Examples + Resources

PHOTOS

http://www.laceforstudy.org.uk/

Jean Leader's new website, different types of lace - https://www.lacetypes.com/

To compare needle lace, tatting and crochet, Kathleen Minniti's sampler.

My antique lace boards on Pinterest

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/bobbin-lace-antique/

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/needle-lace-antique/

My collection of boards on Pinterest http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/

Jo Edkins lace collection online: http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/collection/index.htm

Laces compared: https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/lace-identification-7-examples

A university based website specializing in the social history attached to lacemaking

https://laceincontext.com/

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Bobbin lace antiquebobbinlace bobbinlace3 Needle lace needlelace2

For recognizing Swedish bobbin lace: http://elsapetersonsspetsaffar.com/

Tatting tatting2 tatting3

Filet lace filetlace2 filetlace3 filet lace4 Buratto

Sol lace sollace2 sol lace3

Knitted lace knittedlace2 Crochet lace Irish crochet lace IrishCrochet2

TAPE LACE WITH PARTS NOT ALL BOBBIN MADE

Bobbin tape lace bobbin tape lace 2

Mixed tape lace-machinetape Romanian needlepoint lace

LACES WITH OTHER MACHINE MADE PARTS - net

Embroidery on tulle-needlerun Embroidery on tulle-tambour Carrickmacross

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MACHINE LACES

This is what it takes to make a cloth stitch strip with a machine. I don't know which machine this is. https://www.facebook.com/brooklynlaceguild/videos/1496541547035682/ ;

Chemical lace ChemicalLace2 chemical lace3 chemical lace4

See this for a technical explanation of the chemical lace process.

Barmen machine lace Raschel machine lace Leavers machine

machine1 (not sure what machine)

http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Lace-Booklet.pdf a booklet which purports to distinguish machine from hand made laces. Some of the diagrams of typical machine structural elements are quite good. But too many of the comparison photos do not have enough detail to verify whether they are in fact machine made or hand made. The photos don't all show the individual threads. Still, the booklet is useful for the diagrams and descriptions of the various machine laces.

RESOURCES TO START LEARNING HOW TO IDENTIFY LACE

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/online-resources

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/6475898:Page:1417

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/specific-pages-in-lynxlace

IOLI.ORG'S RESOURCES

THE KOON COLLECTION

The Koon collection CD is a collection of images from the Eunice Sein Koon
Collection of Lace donated to IOLI by Ms. Koon. Ms. Koon was the editor of
Lace Craft Quarterly and a collector of lace. It is not related to the
Minnesota collection to the best of my knowledge. The CD is a series of
Powerpoint slides organized as the collection pieces are numbered. There
are approximately 100 pieces of various types of lace in the Koon
collection. Pictures from the CD could be copied and pasted into another
Powerpoint presentation, or the images could be used to request pieces of
lace from the collection for study by IOLI members. Policy for use of this
lace is described on p. 58 of the IOLI Member Handbook. -- Jo Ann Eurell

LACE STUDY BOX

The IOLI - Internation Organization of Lace, Inc. has a study box of lace fragments that members can borrow.

(I am searching for a link)

IOLI also has a lending library for members' use

http://www.internationalorganizationoflace.org/library1.html

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/international-organization-of-lace-inc/page/ioli-advanced-study-of-lace

A site with good photos of high quality antique laces: http://www.mendes.co.uk/antique.bobbin.lace.p.two.html ;

Discussion Forum

Piece of old lace 7 Replies

I posted this somewhere else, because I didn't know this group existed. Here 'tis: An old piece of unknown provenance. Needlelace. That's all I know. I do not remember where I got it except that I…Continue

Started by Claudia Crowley. Last reply by Nancy A. Neff on Friday.

Old Dresser Scarf? 7 Replies

My Aunt Ida who is now 100 gave me what was probably once used as a dresser scarf. She does not know anything about it other than it was amoung old family items. The linen is hemmed to about 19.5"…Continue

Started by Sally Olsen. Last reply by Trinity Apr 4.

Bobbin lace in Saxony? 2 Replies

I have a kind of holiday-related lace question.When I was putting up my…Continue

Started by Mary Mangan. Last reply by Mary Mangan Dec 14, 2020.

Strange mesh 3 Replies

Does anyone recognize this lace? My first thought was Lille, but the design is a little off, more like 19th c Valenciennes. Maybe Valenciennes with a round-hole mesh? But Val isn't known for the…Continue

Started by Laurie Waters. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator Jun 26, 2020.

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Comment Wall

Comment

You need to be a member of Identification-History to add comments!

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on June 22, 2019 at 10:20pm: 48.187.645 is not Honiton, I think. There is nothing about the style which suggests Honiton of the 19th century, and it certainly isn't 20th century. It does appear to be a straight lace (continuous lace) with motif threads moving into that strange ground.

The density of the motifs and their shape are somewhat reminiscent of Valenciennes, but the ground certainly isn't Val ground, or even a distant relative. That ground is very odd.

I don't think it is Beds, because the design, the style, isn't anywhere like any Beds lace I have seen. Beds designs have a graceful, organic feel to them -- not a very specific description. But I really don't think Cluny or Maltese.

I think it is continental on structural and stylistic grounds. But exactly where I don't know. It isn't like any 19th century LePuy lace that I have seen. I would lable it "continental guipure" except it doesn't have a braided ground (plaited ground). It could be France, Germany, Italy ??? Doris Southard used the term "continental guipure" to refer to floral design straight laces of continental origin (no specific country) with a braided/plaited ground.

Nancy I appreciate your reference to that page in my website. I haven't given any geographical names to any of those because I simply don't know. I won't make definite statements unless I am reasonably sure.

Regarding the term "guipure", I have also seen it used by central European lace makers to refer to modern lace designs which are pictorial, and which may have both straight lace and part lace structures in them. So I suppose it is a flawed term and we should find something to replace it.

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on June 22, 2019 at 10:05pm: 06.629. and 1979.311.12

Both are tragic examples of what happens when lace is washed by careless people who don't know how to keep it flat. What a mess they both are.

In the Paris ground lace they sure did overdo the overcasting to join the 2 pieces.

The ground in the Flanders ground piece is very strange.

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on June 22, 2019 at 9:58pm: Your Binche piece corners are not lassen, but what I would call seamed. Very expertly seamed, almost invisibly. As to using thread much smaller than the lacemaking thread, it is what I would use. Failing the existence of thread the same color and finer that the lace thread, I would use the lace thread, so it would match, at least. I'm not convinced there was ever a firm rule about it. Also I think the dates you have given for that piece are probably quite accurate, based on the style of the lace design alone. It is not anything like the really old laces with this structure. It is what I would call a better-than-usual quality of design for that period.

The Val lace wasn't joined quite so expertly. But I suppose the openness of the ground makes that impossible.

I haven't a clue when lassen first began to be used to join lace ends together.

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on June 22, 2019 at 4:54pm: A new site with comparison photos. Looks quite useful.

https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/lace-identif...

Comment by Nancy A. Neff on June 20, 2019 at 10:43am: The design looks to me like v early 1900s German, or floral Beds as Cindy suggests. I don't know how far back floral Beds goes and I can't find my copy of the recent book on it. Besides the design, the edges of the cloth stitch argues for one of those. Are there floral Beds without leaves?

Comment by Devon Thein on June 20, 2019 at 9:20am: Looking at the flowers on this piece, it strikes me that they look a lot like flowers on Valenciennes de Gand, although the background mesh is not appropriate. Also, Valencinnes de Gand is a part lace. But, could it be Belgian? Here is a link to a Valenciennes de Gand piece. https://www.gazette-drouot.com/lots/6088220

Comment by Cindy Tiger on June 19, 2019 at 1:35am: When I first saw your picture Devon, my immediate thought was floral Beds. This piece looks very similar to the few pieces of that that I’ve seen, especially the ground. The edge treatment is atypical, but much sturdier than a 9-pin edge! And it compliments the design beautifully.

Comment by Carolina de la Guardia on June 19, 2019 at 12:57am: Here the are my thoughts about this piece.

When Nancy mentioned Leni Matthaei, come to my mind the book I have in my shelves LENI MATTHAEI by Inge Mühlensiepen. The book is in German, so I cannot understand the text.

This lady born in Hamburg about 1873, She did not design a specific type of lace, she used her knowledge on lace to express herself into the avant garde movement in 1920’s.

The piece we are talking here is very special in the sense that cannot be categorized in any specific style of lace. For me one of the things that call my attention is the bars ground. These are not plaited bars, they are linen stitch bars.

In the picture uses this characteristic which is the same as in the hanky.

She made this so modern work in her years of maturity, designing more traditional draws in her youth, probably according with design fashion.