This is part 2 of Lia Baumeister-Jonkers' first Chantilly lesson, originally published in the IOLI Bulletin Volume 35 Number 1 in fall 2014. Published here with her permission.


The footside is worked on the lefthand side. One can find several different ways to work the footside.

Method 1

The footside is worked from the last pin in the ground to the outside edge. The pin is placed on the left of the two pairs of the last stitch. +  The lefthand pair is twisted twice and works two linen stitches to the left through the two passive pairs. The outside pair and the runners are twisted twice and they work a linen stitch. The pin is placed on the right of the two pairs. Twist the righthand pair twice and work with this pair two linen stitches to the right. See the thread drawing. The last stitch before the footside is worked: The pair coming from the footside is twisted twice. the pair coming out of the ground is twisted three times and the pairs are crossed. The pin is put left of the two pairs. +  Repeat from + to + for footside.

Method 2.

+ The pair that comes out of the ground and that has to make the last stitch before the footside is worked, is twisted twice.  The pair that comes out of the footside is not twisted. Work a whole stitch with both pairs (twist, cross, twist, cross). Place the pin between the two pairs. Work with the lefthand pair whole stitches to the outside. Place the outside pin on the right of the two outer pairs. The second pair on the left works two whole stitches to the right and has to wait for the next row.+ Repeat from + to +.

In the diagram and the threaddrawing two passive pairs are used in the footside.

It is also possible to use one passive pair in the footside with this method.

The coarse thread, or gimp.

The coarse thread is a distinguished part of Chantilly lace. As gimp the coarse thread is seen around one single or groups of honeycombs, around half stitch motifs, around fillings and so on.

The coarse thread is also seen as a single thread, helping to form the design.

The coarse thread is used to form stems for flowers or leaves in the ground. 

The coarse thread can also be used to emphasize the half stitch motifs.

The coarse thread in combination with tule ground, honeycomb and half stitch.

As rule holds:

Before the coarse thread:

   from the tule ground - three twists

   from the honeycomb st - two twists

   from the half st - two twists

After the coarse thread:

   into the tule ground - two twists

   into the half st - one twist (This twist comes automatically from the halfstitch.)

See the thread drawings.

The picot.

Along the outside of the lace one will always find picots. Along the row of picots one will find one passive pair worked in whole stitch. The original picot in Chantilly is a twisted picot. At the end of the 19th century one can sometimes find a looped picot in old laces. This was done as the looped picot was quicker to make than the twisted picot. The twisted picot shows off much better in the lace. See the thread drawing.

Threads worked along the coarse thread.

When one needs more passive pairs in a half stitch motif than just the pairs coming out of the tulle ground, one has to add new pairs. The pairs can be in the work already when they were carried along the coarse thread. They are taken out of the bundle (coarse thread and extra pairs) where necessary as shown on the thread drawings.

The symbol for adding a pair or taking out a pair are shown in the diagrams. It is possible to carry several pairs along the coarse thread.

The star.

When, at a pinhole, several pairs start with halfstitch to build the motif, one will see a star in the diagram.

This is a vertical 6-thread crossing, and is worked as a 6-pair crossing. The runners can come from the right and continue to the left. It is also possible that the runners come from the left and continue to the right. In both situations the crossing is worked as shown in the thread drawing. If the star is shown at the end of a halfstitch motif, twist the pairs before the crossing is made.

It is also possible to work a star with 8 threads. Then the crossing is made as an 8-pair crossing.

The tally.

Twist the two pairs twice, which are used for the tally, Work the tally as normal.  Take care that the middle thread crosses diagonally. This gives more body to the tally.

The weaving thread starts on the right and ends on the left. To prevent the tally from pulling in, work as follows:

Keep in mind which thread is the weaving thread. For example, lay the bobbin to the top without tension.

First work the righthand pair of the tally, the pair without the weaving thread, as far as possible diagonally to the right. If possible work the pair to the edge.  Then work the first stitch with the lefthand pair of the tally with care.

Again put the weaving thread aside without tension, and work the diagonal line to the left. Now both threads on the side of the tally are fixed.

Start with the stitch under the tally. By working two twists on the pairs before and after the tally is made, the threads on the sides of the tally will be continuous threads in the ground.

See   for the basic stitches.

See     for the pattern and its complete diagrams for the whole lace.

The pattern itself is here

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There is one more part to follow -- it has the actual pattern and diagrams.

If anyone sees typos, please tell me.


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