Information

Identification-History

For discussions of lace history and lace identification.  You can post a photo into a comment box for a lace you want to discuss.  Bobblin lace history.  About historic lace. Kinds of lace.  Distinguish types of lace.

We can identify a piece of lace for you, but we need good detail.  At least one photo with this kind of detail is necessary.  Otherwise we are just guessing.  A shot of the whole thing is useful because that shows us the style.  Style gives us clues to date and possibly geographical origin.  But we need the detail shot to tell us how it was made.

Members: 138
Latest Activity: May 25

Examples + Resources

PHOTOS   

http://www.laceforstudy.org.uk/ 

Jean Leader's new website, different types of lace - https://www.lacetypes.com/

To compare needle lace, tatting and crochet, Kathleen Minniti's sampler.

My antique lace boards on Pinterest   

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/bobbin-lace-antique/ 

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/needle-lace-antique/ 

My collection of boards on Pinterest http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/ 

Jo Edkins lace collection online:  http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/collection/index.htm

Laces compared: https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/lace-identification-7-examples

A university based website specializing in the social history attached to lacemaking

https://laceincontext.com/

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 Bobbin lace    antiquebobbinlace     bobbinlace3     Needle lace    needlelace2 

For recognizing Swedish bobbin lace:  http://elsapetersonsspetsaffar.com/

Tatting     tatting2   tatting3      

Filet lace    filetlace2    filetlace3   filet lace4    Buratto 

Sol lace   sollace2   sol lace3

Knitted lace    knittedlace2     Crochet lace        Irish crochet lace      IrishCrochet2      

TAPE LACE WITH PARTS NOT ALL BOBBIN MADE

Bobbin tape lace  bobbin tape lace 2   

Mixed tape lace-machinetape      Romanian needlepoint lace  

LACES WITH OTHER MACHINE MADE PARTS - net

Embroidery on tulle-needlerun      Embroidery on tulle-tambour        Carrickmacross  

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MACHINE LACES

This is what it takes to make a cloth stitch strip with a machine. I don't know which machine this is. https://www.facebook.com/brooklynlaceguild/videos/1496541547035682/ ;

Chemical lace   ChemicalLace2  chemical lace3     chemical lace4     

See this for a technical explanation of the chemical lace process.

Barmen machine lace        Raschel machine lace     Leavers machine

machine1 (not sure what machine)   

http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Lace-Booklet.pdf a booklet which purports to distinguish machine from hand made laces. Some of the diagrams of typical machine structural elements are quite good. But too many of the comparison photos do not have enough detail to verify whether they are in fact machine made or hand made. The photos don't all show the individual threads. Still, the booklet is useful for the diagrams and descriptions of the various machine laces.

RESOURCES TO START LEARNING HOW TO IDENTIFY LACE

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/online-resources 

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/6475898:Page:1417 

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/specific-pages-in-lynxlace 

IOLI.ORG'S RESOURCES

THE KOON COLLECTION

The Koon collection CD is a collection of images from the Eunice Sein Koon
Collection of Lace donated to IOLI by Ms. Koon. Ms. Koon was the editor of
Lace Craft Quarterly and a collector of lace.  It is not related to the
Minnesota collection to the best of my knowledge.  The CD is a series of
Powerpoint slides organized as the collection pieces are numbered.  There
are approximately 100 pieces of various types of lace in the Koon
collection.  Pictures from the CD could be copied and pasted into another
Powerpoint presentation, or the images could be used to request pieces of
lace from the collection for study by IOLI members.  Policy for use of this
lace is described on p. 58 of the IOLI Member Handbook. -- Jo Ann Eurell

LACE STUDY BOX

The IOLI - Internation Organization of Lace, Inc. has a study box of lace fragments that members can borrow.  

(I am searching for a link)

IOLI also has a lending library for members' use

http://www.internationalorganizationoflace.org/library1.html

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/international-organization-of-lace-inc/page/ioli-advanced-study-of-lace

A site with good photos of high quality antique laces: http://www.mendes.co.uk/antique.bobbin.lace.p.two.html ;

Discussion Forum

Lacemaking history 6 Replies

Please, does anyone know for sure how lace tokens were used in Great Britain in the 1700s?I have read theories that the tokens were given in lieu of governmental coinage due to a coin shortage, but…Continue

Started by Laurie Elliott. Last reply by Laurie Waters May 13.

Mystery technique 6 Replies

Someone has contacted the New England Lace Group to ask for help identifying the technique used to make a shawl, the fiber used and how best to repair it. The first problem is actually figuring out…Continue

Started by Jill Hawkins. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator Feb 10.

History of Lacemaking 3 Replies

A friend has been asked to make a presentation about the history of lacemaking. She asked about reference books for her preparation.  My suggestion is An Early Lace Workbook by Rosemary…Continue

Started by Sally Olsen. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator Jan 31.

Identification of two pieces of lace 27 Replies

My sister-in-law bought two pieces of lace while in Bize (southern France). She wants me to identify them. I assumed to start with that they are machine made, but I've looked carefully at them and…Continue

Started by Jo Edkins. Last reply by Jo Edkins Oct 13, 2019.

Comment Wall

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Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on April 4, 2020 at 7:02pm

Calling it Old Flanders gives it a name, but doesn't tell us anything about where this type of lace was made, or exactly when. There are some similar laces in Tebbs, but without close up photos that would give us more certainty. 

Comment by Laura Sandison on April 4, 2020 at 4:10pm

Great thanks Devon! 

Comment by Devon Thein on April 4, 2020 at 2:01pm


Many thanks to Elizabeth Kurella for identifying this as Vieux Flandre. She describes it in her book. Also, confirmation was found in the Rosaline book by Ghislaine Eemans-Moors. It seems that the Vieux Flandre was made in the same area as Rosaline, especially in Liedekerke, Begium. I also found the lace, identified as Oud-Vlamse Kant, which means the same thing, Old Flemish lace, only in Flemish, in the book Kloskant te Liedekerke by William Cobbaert. Unfortunately the book is entirely in Flemish but there are some very clear photos The photos show the brick like needle ground. I confess that I also thought the brick like needle ground seemed like Burano. In Santina Levey's book, on p. 112, there is an intriguing reference to some pieces made on the Venetian Island of Pellestrina. Referring to Jesurum, "In the early twentieth century the firm also made a version of the Rosaline bobbin lace of Belgium, although the table sets that were made at that time of a mixture of Burano needle lace and Rosaline, are known to have employed lace imported from Belgium." I am attaching a photo from Kloskant te Liedekerke of Oud-Vlaamse. (Everyone agrees that Old Flemish is a misnomer since it was a 19th and 20th century lace.)

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on April 3, 2020 at 6:16pm

I have tried for years to find somebody who can tell me just exactly where and when this combination of methods occurred. I think it perfectly reasonable to date it as near 1900 -- the "revival era". But Belgian? Dutch? French? I have not been able to get any certainty. The lacemaker of the motifs clearly knows Duchesse technique, and possibly had some acquaintace with Rosaline ( the little holes in the cloth parts are more typical of Rosaline than Duchesse. The needle lace ground is a larger scale than one would expect, and that is true of the 3 pieces on my website, as is true also of your piece. I have been wondering if there was some school where this combination was done frequently, but have had absolutely no information. Your piece is just one more intriguing and frustrating example.

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on April 3, 2020 at 6:10pm

Devon - I have seen a few examples of laces somewhat like these. I have 3 on my personal website: bobbin part lace with a needle lace ground. Some have rosaline-like motifs, others are more like a coarse type of Duchesse. One characteristic of Rosaline is that it has a winkiepin edge (pin after 2 threads). Your piece has a sewing edge (pin after 4).

http://lynxlace.com/bobbinlacerevivalerapart.html#revival%20era%20o...

rosaline: http://lynxlace.com/images/lace61.jpg

Comment by Laura Sandison on April 3, 2020 at 10:42am

Is it possible that this was finished by Zele needlelacers? It is an exquisite piece of Rosaline. I would certainly call it Rosaline because the majority of the work is made that way. However, there may have been a crossover such as we see with Brussels Duchesse: bobbin and needle laces joined. The Belgians were great at coming up with a faster way to produce something. As such, I would just say it was an experiment to employ more/different lacemakers.

Comment by Karen Thompson on April 2, 2020 at 7:40pm

Isn't there something about the very rectangular "alencon" mesh looking like bricks, is typical of Burano? And the rather fuzzy thread would add to my guess that it might have been made in Burano.  Just guessing. 

Comment by Devon Thein on April 2, 2020 at 4:39pm

I have encountered this piece, a bertha. It looks to me as though the motifs are typical of Rosaline. However, they are set in a needle made mesh. Does anyone know anything about this, for instance where it was made? Is it appropriate to call it Rosaline?

Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti on March 29, 2020 at 10:09pm

I had never heard of Redano Lace before, either. 

There is always something new to learn - about the Old laces!  I am so glad you ladies are on the list and share your expertise with us all. and photos, of course, and Lorelei, your highlighting of some of the photos with coloured rings is such a great help. Thank you all.  this is the very Best place to get an interesting Lace Education!

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on March 29, 2020 at 7:09pm

Karen - I think you are right about droschel ground in that piece.

Devon and Carolina - This is the first time I've heard of Redano lace. Devon's photos do show a style similar to Pottenkant. But Pottenkant was a straight lace, and all 4 of Devon's are part laces: a tape which meanders through the design, curving and sewing to itself. And yes, the ground would be hung in afterwards. I have seen a lot of laces at the Art Institute of Chicago with similar structure and design, but Devon's photos are not quite on the same standard.

One other difference is that the Art Institute laces that I saw had something more like Valenciennes ground (hung in afterward) and Devon's laces look like standard braids connected to each other with windmill joins. A windmill join does not leave any holes at the connecting point, but the AI pieces all had little holes at the joining point.

It is my impression that this style was mostly used for alb laces -- deep flounces -- or altar frontals. And the dates were roughly late 17th, to mid 18th centuries.

Devon's laces are all solid tapes with no openwork or decorative stitches inside the tape, but a large percentage of the AI's laces were similar to Milanese.

I really don't know anything about Spanish laces. I did look at http://www.laceforstudy.org.uk/?s=Flemish to see if there was anything similar there, but found no exact, or even close, examples. I also checked the photos from my website  http://lynxlace.com/bobbinlacepottenkantmilanese.html  but found nothing close enough. 

 
 
 

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