Information

Identification-History

For discussions of lace history and lace identification.  You can post a photo into a comment box for a lace you want to discuss.  Bobblin lace history.  About historic lace. Kinds of lace.  Distinguish types of lace.

We can identify a piece of lace for you, but we need good detail.  At least one photo with this kind of detail is necessary.  Otherwise we are just guessing.  A shot of the whole thing is useful because that shows us the style.  Style gives us clues to date and possibly geographical origin.  But we need the detail shot to tell us how it was made.

Members: 138
Latest Activity: on Friday

Examples + Resources

PHOTOS   

http://www.laceforstudy.org.uk/ 

Jean Leader's new website, different types of lace - https://www.lacetypes.com/

To compare needle lace, tatting and crochet, Kathleen Minniti's sampler.

My antique lace boards on Pinterest   

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/bobbin-lace-antique/ 

http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/needle-lace-antique/ 

My collection of boards on Pinterest http://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/ 

Jo Edkins lace collection online:  http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/collection/index.htm

Laces compared: https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-digital-exhibition/index.php/lace-identification-7-examples

A university based website specializing in the social history attached to lacemaking

https://laceincontext.com/

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 Bobbin lace    antiquebobbinlace     bobbinlace3     Needle lace    needlelace2 

For recognizing Swedish bobbin lace:  http://elsapetersonsspetsaffar.com/

Tatting     tatting2   tatting3      

Filet lace    filetlace2    filetlace3   filet lace4    Buratto 

Sol lace   sollace2   sol lace3

Knitted lace    knittedlace2     Crochet lace        Irish crochet lace      IrishCrochet2      

TAPE LACE WITH PARTS NOT ALL BOBBIN MADE

Bobbin tape lace  bobbin tape lace 2   

Mixed tape lace-machinetape      Romanian needlepoint lace  

LACES WITH OTHER MACHINE MADE PARTS - net

Embroidery on tulle-needlerun      Embroidery on tulle-tambour        Carrickmacross  

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MACHINE LACES

This is what it takes to make a cloth stitch strip with a machine. I don't know which machine this is. https://www.facebook.com/brooklynlaceguild/videos/1496541547035682/ ;

Chemical lace   ChemicalLace2  chemical lace3     chemical lace4     

See this for a technical explanation of the chemical lace process.

Barmen machine lace        Raschel machine lace     Leavers machine

machine1 (not sure what machine)   

http://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Lace-Booklet.pdf a booklet which purports to distinguish machine from hand made laces. Some of the diagrams of typical machine structural elements are quite good. But too many of the comparison photos do not have enough detail to verify whether they are in fact machine made or hand made. The photos don't all show the individual threads. Still, the booklet is useful for the diagrams and descriptions of the various machine laces.

RESOURCES TO START LEARNING HOW TO IDENTIFY LACE

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/online-resources 

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/6475898:Page:1417 

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/identification-history/page/specific-pages-in-lynxlace 

IOLI.ORG'S RESOURCES

THE KOON COLLECTION

The Koon collection CD is a collection of images from the Eunice Sein Koon
Collection of Lace donated to IOLI by Ms. Koon. Ms. Koon was the editor of
Lace Craft Quarterly and a collector of lace.  It is not related to the
Minnesota collection to the best of my knowledge.  The CD is a series of
Powerpoint slides organized as the collection pieces are numbered.  There
are approximately 100 pieces of various types of lace in the Koon
collection.  Pictures from the CD could be copied and pasted into another
Powerpoint presentation, or the images could be used to request pieces of
lace from the collection for study by IOLI members.  Policy for use of this
lace is described on p. 58 of the IOLI Member Handbook. -- Jo Ann Eurell

LACE STUDY BOX

The IOLI - Internation Organization of Lace, Inc. has a study box of lace fragments that members can borrow.  

(I am searching for a link)

IOLI also has a lending library for members' use

http://www.internationalorganizationoflace.org/library1.html

http://laceioli.ning.com/group/international-organization-of-lace-inc/page/ioli-advanced-study-of-lace

A site with good photos of high quality antique laces: http://www.mendes.co.uk/antique.bobbin.lace.p.two.html ;

Discussion Forum

Strange mesh 3 Replies

Does anyone recognize this lace? My first thought was Lille, but the design is a little off, more like 19th c Valenciennes. Maybe Valenciennes with a round-hole mesh? But Val isn't known for the…Continue

Started by Laurie Waters. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator on Friday.

Lacemaking history 6 Replies

Please, does anyone know for sure how lace tokens were used in Great Britain in the 1700s?I have read theories that the tokens were given in lieu of governmental coinage due to a coin shortage, but…Continue

Started by Laurie Elliott. Last reply by Laurie Waters May 13.

Mystery technique 6 Replies

Someone has contacted the New England Lace Group to ask for help identifying the technique used to make a shawl, the fiber used and how best to repair it. The first problem is actually figuring out…Continue

Started by Jill Hawkins. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator Feb 10.

History of Lacemaking 3 Replies

A friend has been asked to make a presentation about the history of lacemaking. She asked about reference books for her preparation.  My suggestion is An Early Lace Workbook by Rosemary…Continue

Started by Sally Olsen. Last reply by Lorelei Halley Administrator Jan 31.

Comment Wall

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Comment by Elizabeth Ligeti on June 4, 2020 at 10:30pm

As I understand it, the Punto in Aria is worked with the needle thread laying the outline - as you go- and doing the filling stitches, whereas the "Other way" (which is the way I prefer to work!) is to couch down an outline first, and then do the filling stitches separately. 

Whatever - the final outcome looks very much the same!!  I love your photos of these lace pieces, Devon. Thank you for them - they are so clear, and one can see the separate stitches etc.  I am No scholar, but I am enjoying the conversation!

Comment by Devon Thein on June 4, 2020 at 2:51pm

Reticella was worked on a framework of threads from a woven fabric. Workers began to make diagonal support threads across the woven framework and to work on either side of those support threads. Afterward support threads were laid without the woven framework. Buttonhole stitches were worked on these, working outward from an interior skeletal thread and this is called punto in aria. At a certain point, workers began to lay threads to surround the design area and to fill these areas with needle lace stitches, including more decorative ones. In the later case, was the lace still called punto in aria, or is there another name for it? Does it make a difference if the lace was worked from an interior support thread out, or filling in exterior laid threads, or is the basic style the determinant of whether something is punto in aria? Here are some examples. The first three look like classic punto in aria to me. The last three have areas that look like they might be filled, principally because the needle lace stitches are not solid. Would the last three be punto in aria?

Comment by Laurie Waters on May 25, 2020 at 7:34pm

Regarding Genoa knock-offs, look carefully at the Sansepolcro industry, they did a lot of that kind of work. Heather Toomer and I are translating the book "Ginna Marcelli e il Merletto di Sansepolcro' published 1996, based on a few things we have just discovered.

Comment by Helen Bell on May 25, 2020 at 6:44pm

Hmmm.  Will have to do some research, as I don't remember which book or thesis I read about it in.  It may even have been a paper or document I found on the web.  I don't think there's very much info about it though.

I wonder if Pat Earnshaw's reference to 'snail's head pattern' is a reference to to early Honiton and the Honiton 'slugs'.

Comment by Devon Thein on May 25, 2020 at 3:46pm

Also, Pat Earnshaw refers to something called a "snail's head pattern" illustrating this term with a photo that looks a bit like these laces. Does anyone know what she means by "snail's head" in this context? I have never heard the term before. 

Comment by Devon Thein on May 25, 2020 at 3:41pm

Do you know of anything I could read about the Genoa knock off industry of older styles? 

Comment by Helen Bell on May 25, 2020 at 3:28pm

Your interesting thread transfer looks awfully like a fat plait, which we use in Beds all the time, and you do see it in the old Beds.  It's a very convenient way to move a group of threads from one place to another.

Lorelei's piece below almost looks like the edge was added at a later date, as it seems to have a different 'vibe'/style to it.  I'd also argue that close inspection could reveal a different level of workmanship, supporting the theory of multiple workers (lacemakers).

Is it possible/plausible that it's a knock off from the 1800's?  I know Genoa had quite an industry going at that time that was essentially a 'knock off' industry of the older styles.  The quality of the work and consistency of the square tallies/cucumbers shows some skill and attention to workmanship.

Fascinating piece.

Comment by Devon Thein on May 25, 2020 at 2:58pm

Even as the previous piece has yet to truly be understood, I have encountered another piece which seems to be related in technique which I am also at a loss to identify. However, it looks somewhat like plate 253 in Levey, if only because of the strapwork design in it. I think it may have been remade, so maybe there are pieces from more than one original in it. However, I really find some of the techniques to be interesting and not things I have seen. Levey talks about the tape laces transitioning into the part laces such as Brussels lace (plate 255 a-d) and perhaps this is an example of that. There seems to be an underlying psychology of the same loop construction as in Fiandra, or Noue or occhiolino, all words for the same loop phenomenon. But then the tape becomes a motif and the motif is filled, sometimes with a raised edge like in Honiton, sometimes simply filled. Also there are some very weird transfers of pairs that are quite intriguing. Thoughts? 

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on May 24, 2020 at 8:54pm

As for a date, I don't think it is very old. The odd collection of motifs just does not fit a date around 1700. More likely revival era, or even New Revival Era, somebody laughing at all of us, putting this collection of ideas in the same piece of lace. It shows some knowledge of Revival Era Binche, some knowledge of rib loops backed by half stitch (more likely continental than English), and the little snowflake is also more likely continental.

A marvelous puzzle for us to discuss. Thanx Devon.

Comment by Lorelei Halley Administrator on May 24, 2020 at 8:47pm

I haven't a clue what to call it. But here is what I see.

Green outlines an area of cucumber tallies, a motif that often occurs in Binche, particularly Revival Era and modern Binche.  But this piece is a part lace, not a straight lace (Binche is a straight lace}.

The blue outlines an area of tenstick/rib. It is made usually with 5 pairs, though more can be used. One side of the narrow tape is worked as a sewing edge, and the other ctctc, return with the 2nd pair. I have seen this motif in a lace at the Art Institute of Chicago dating from around 1700. And it also occurs in more recent laces, including 20th century.

The red outlines a small number of those loops with half stitch (I think) laid on top of it. (Remember a part lace is worked with the wrong side facing the lace maker.) 

The pink outlines an area filling which may be the small snowflake, also from Binche.

I will attach some photo examples.

lower left hand corner, 2nd tape from left. 

Perryman sampler that I made. http://lynxlace.com/images/lace597b.jpg  

Little snowflake several variants 

An Art Institute piece with the rib loops, backed by half stitch. 

 
 
 

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