For those who love hand made lace.
An arachne member, Susan Hottle wrote in to that network, having trouble with that pattern. I looked at it and figured out the problem. She asked me to post my answer there. But that forum doesn't allow photos or images. So I've posted it here with the images, in case anybody else is having trouble with it. I still think Barbara Corbet's book is quite good and very useful.
Your are right. The pattern and the diagram do not match. And it isn't just a matter of how many pinholes. The connection in one movement and the connection in 2 movements have a different pinning array of the side which lies between the close work and the ground.
In FLANDERS CORNER the blue boxes identify where a connection in one movement should occur. The orange box shows the array when a connection in 2 movements should be made. However, if you look at IMG 117 you will see that every single pinning array, on all 4 sides has the connection in 1 movement. Nowhere is there the correct pinning array for the connection in 2 movements. OOPS
So I would say, just do the normal connection in 1 movement, and put in extra turning stitches at the corner, or remove some, to make the corner looking good.
Corbett isn't the only author who has made mistakes. Pam Nottingham also has diagrams that don't match her photos. I suppose we should be grateful that they are writing books and giving us instructions and patterns. Without them we would be in a worse case. I still think Corbett's book is pretty good. But if I try one of her patterns I will carefully check the pricking against the diagram before I start.
I forgot to mention that on the diagram I put colored rings around turning stitches or fudge stitches. Put them in wherever you need to, to keep the weaver in the cloth area more level and straight. I think if you undo just the last row or2 you could manage with turning stitches. I assume you know various ways to do turning stitches. Or skip an outer edge pin if that is what is needed.
I would start with a scan of the pattern at high resolution, so you can get a printout of just the corner area. Draw in all the directional lines for the weaver and ground connections. Work it out on paper first. I do that when I get stuck.
The red rings are places where the weaver doesn't go all the way to the ring pair. The green rings are turning stitches midway through the cloth work.
Thank you for posting your tutorial Lorelei! After reading thru older posts, it seems this is a popular book so this will be helpful for others. I hope Nadine got her squares sorted out. Lyn is correct, the start for the squares includes a magic thread for the single gimps--there are two. And they do need to be secured! Ask me how I know. If the magic threads are accidentally removed when completing the square, the gimp can be "installed" using a #28 tapestry needle. The author suggests 4 strands of Anchor Marlitt rayon, 2Z/4S is 10w per cm. The rayon was too squirelly for me so I used DMC floss, 6 strands is 10w per cm. After the lace was off the pillow, I teased out two strands & needled them into the same shed as the starting gimp, then repeated two more times to incorporate all six strands. I left myself enough of a tail on each end to pull each set of 6 strands away from each other. After the gimp was straight & taut, I clipped close. I did not start with individual pins for the passives. I looped the pairs over a divider pin laid flat & pinned to the pillow. Unfortunately, I removed it too soon & lost my loop ends. In future, I would leave the long pin in place until the end & withdraw it slightly, releasing one loop at a time to be sewn into. Hope this helps others with their Flanders adventures.