My design.  I printed it at 120% of original size and used 60/2 weaving linen.  Bockens 50/2 linen or Moravia 40/2 are comparable in size.  DMC or Anchor cordonnet #60 would also work with that size.

This pattern requires 10 pairs, wound in pairs.

You could use this pattern to decorate a pincushion.

The only new thing in this lesson is the crossing of 3 braids.  There is also the problem of where to start so as to hide the ending in the best way possible.

 

 

There are 3 different ways of crossing 3 braids that I know of.  The last method seems to be most common in Bedfordshire.  But I find #2 easiest to understand and remember.

 

 

Hang on where the turquoise blue braids start.  This is one of those situations where you need to plan where you will end, and hide the resulting knots and cut threads.  There is nothing to hide them behind.  So I think the best solution is to end them along the footside edge.  Lumps will be less visible there.
Working the lace has no surprises, except the crossing of 3 braids or plaits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ending:

In order to make the ends less visible, I changed the direction of the braids when I neared the end.  Once you reach this point, as at left, some braids will take odd paths.

When you reach E the green braid is sewn onto the starting braid there.  Continue to D, sew the green braid there.  Also sew the purple braid there.

Work the purple braid backwards to B, and do a windmill join at B with the purple and pink braids.  

The purple, orange and blue braids converge on A. I did a crossing of  3 braids.   

The pink and blue braids were sewn into the beginning loop at C.  Then I knotted each pair 2x.  I made a tight bundle with each group of threads and cut the ends.  

 

 

 

 

 I didn't do a very good job of hiding the ends. But with a lace like this one with only a braid at the footside it is nearly impossible to hide the ends. If I mount this to cloth by closely whipping the lace onto the cloth I may be able to hide those lumps.  Closely buttonholing the lace to the cloth would also work, I think.

 

Another solution would have been to leave very long ends, and to use them to sew the lace onto the fabric.  After knotting the threads, all the ends could be threaded into a needle and stitched into the cloth.  Then the lace could be buttonholed or closely whipped to the cloth, so that only the outside footside braid would be covered.

 

 

 You now know enough to make these laces: 

 http://artesaniadegalicia.xunta.es/publicaciones/encaixes   the one titled Encaixe Galego Tradicional patterns 47 and 55. 

At previous website, the one titled Raizame-encaixe-Galego patterns 27, 71.2, 73.2, 77.2, 130.2, 141.

 http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html      Look for: 

 

Mincoff, Elizabeth and Margaret S. Marriage. Pillow Lace: A Practical Hand-Book, E. P. Dutton, 1907, 290 pages. Note: Scanned images provided by Tess Parrish. Posted March 25, 2004. CD (LDA04). SAMPLE PAGE. CONTENTS. Part 1: File size 8.4 MB PDF. Part 2: File size 7 MB PDF. Part 3: File size 8.2 MB PDF.

These 6 lessons cover some of the basics of plaited lace.  All are used in Cluny lace, most are used in Bedfordshire lace.  At this point you should look for good books for those types of lace, to continue into the intermediate and advanced levels of those laces.

For Bedfordshire I recommend

  • Barbara Underwood INTRODUCING TRADITIONAL BEDFORDSHIRE LACE IN 20 LESSONS, 1993, Ruth Bean.

For Cluny I recommend  

Mick Fouriscot & Mylene Salvador,  MODELES DE DENTELLES AU FUSEAUX CLUNY,  Editions Didier Carpentier, 1996     and

Brigitt Bellon GEKLOEPPELTE RETICELLA, 1998, Barbara Fay Verlag.

  © Lorelei Halley 2012    Copying this for personal use is permitted.  Copying for any commercial use is prohibited.  Copying to another internet site is prohibited.  

 

 

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