For those who love hand made lace.
This lesson builds on the 2 that went before. Elements that were covered there will not be repeated. The new elements are
Pattern is from Handleiding voor Vrouwelijke Handwerken #11 (Instructions for Women's Handwork), A. W. Sijthoff, Leiden, the file is hw11.pdf .
Find it at http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books.html This is in the 1st part of the list, with no authors listed. I designed the corner. I enlarged the pattern to 125% and used a 60/2 weaving linen and Moravia linen 40/2. Cordonnet crochet cotton #60 or Bockens linen 50/2 would also fit that size.
The original size should work with #80 tatting cotton.
I recommend using a flat or cookie pillow for this. It doesn't matter whether you set up with the headside on the right or the left. Most of my diagrams show the headside on the right. It will be easier to follow the diagrams if you do the same.
This pattern requires 8 pairs of bobbins, wound in pairs.
On the red pin, hang 4 pairs as at left.
Wrap the right hand bobbins around a temporary pin to immobilize them, until you have enough length of braid completed.
Hang the weaver pair on the purple pin. The footside requires 3 passive pairs. If you hang them on a horizontal pin supported by 2 other pins, it will be easier to sew out at the end of the lace.
When deciding where to hang on and start the lace, the most important factor is to choose a place which will allow you to hide the knots and ending tails behind something solid, like cloth stitch, or behind the foot.
Sometimes this means that you will work backwards or take unusual directions when you reach the end. More about that later.
Lesson 1 explains how to make a braid/plait, windmill join, and knotted picots. The lesson on basic stitches explains how to make the narrow footside in double stitch. What is new in this pattern is how to put the 2 together: how to connect the braid to the footside, and how to sew out at the end of the lace.
There are 2 ways to connect a braid with the weaver from the footside. The 1st version, below, is most common in Cluny and continental laces. The 2nd method is most common in Bedfordshire laces.
You have 3 pairs which must be involved in the connection. Treat each pair as if it were a single thread. If the braid is on the right, work cross pin twist cross, always moving an outside pair first.
If the braid is on the left, you still do cross pin twist cross, but start by moving the central pair.
This method simply involves cloth stitching the footside weaver through the 2 pairs from the braid, set the pin, twist the weaver once or twice (depending on whether you want a visible hole or not), cloth stitch the weaver back through them. Resume the normal foot, and the normal braid.
This method works when you have too narrow a space to fit all those extra threads. You treat each pair of the braid as if it were a single pair while you are doing the crossing.
When you reach the corner there are some odd movements. I didn't work all 4 corners the same. For this one take the footside weaver from g to h normally. At h the 2 braid pairs make a normal braid to k, but I used the footside weaver and the rightmost footside passive to make a braid from h to m. At m I made a windmill crossing. The 2 rightmost pairs resumed the normal braid after m. The 2 footside pairs split up, and one of them became the footside weaver and goes from m to f. Because the distance between g and f is so short, don't put any twists on the leftmost footside passive.
I worked the corner below differently. After h the 2 braid pairs make the normal braid from h to k. But I worked the footside weaver through the rightmost footside passive, then did CTTC with the footside weaver and the central footside passive. Then the weaver changed direction and went back towards m.
The blue rings show where the CTTC is worked.
When you get around to the end, you will have to attach the final braids to some part already finished by doing sewings. When the lace is on the scale of this piece, a crochet hook is the best tool for this. Lacemakers who specialize in very fine scale laces use other tools. Remove the pin from the loop where you will make the sewing. Insert the hook into the appropriate loop, and pull up a loop of one of the threads from the pair that need to be sewn there. Put the tail of the other bobbin through the loop. Gently but firmly pull the bobbins apart to remove all the slack. Reset the pin.
In the diagram at right the red lines show where the beginning of your lace is. The red lines are the first part of the lace that you made. 4 pairs were hung on C, the weaver was hung on D and you have 3 loops from the footside passives, laying in between E and D.
Work the footside as normal until you reach the line e to d. Stop with the weaver at d. Stop the blue braid at a, and stop the green braid at b.
As you are nearing the finish, when you reach A and B, you are going to change the direction that the braids take. Bobbin lace is made with the wrong side facing the lacemaker because the endings always leave little lumps of knots, which are unsightly. Endings are always unsightly. So we try to hide them as well as possible. In this piece I think the best place to hide them is behind the footside.
So instead of having the blue braid go from a to c, and the green braid from b to c, we are going to change direction. If we ended at C you would have 8 bobbins threads to hide at C, which is virtually impossible.
First sew the blue braid into the weaver loop at A. Insert the hook into the loop, grab a thread from the pair you are sewing, and pull up a loop. Put the green dot bobbin through the loop. Gently but firmly pull the two bobbins apart to remove the slack. Reset the pin.
Lay the bobbins aside, but don't knot them yet. It is best to save the knotting for last, when all the sewings are completed. You can undo a sewing, but a knot is final.
Many lacemakers regard a single sewing, as described already, is sufficient to sew a braid. A more secure way is to make a double sewing. Instead of just pulling up one thread, pull up the 2 nearest simultaneously. Then put the other 2 bobbins through the loop. Try to keep the braid flat and smooth while doing this. Gently pull the pairs apart to remove the slack.
Then the green braid will go from b to c, where you hook it around the starting braid at c. Then braid it from c to a, and sew/hook these 2 pairs also into a.
When you hung on at the beginning you put 3 pairs on a horizontal pin. The reason is that this leaves visible loops for you to sew into at the end.
Every footside passive must be sewn into its own beginning loop.
Sew the footside weaver into d.
Check everything carefully to be sure all the pairs are sewn into something. Then knot each pair 2 times. Then take each 2 pairs and make a flat braid about 3/4 inch long. Take a pair from each braid and sew it to a footside pinhole near its end. Then knot that pair 2 times. Then cut off all the bobbins short at the braid end. The braids won't unravel, even if the lace is sewn to a handkerchief and machine washed.
Another option is to wrap one of the threads around the others to make a bundle. Then sew the wrapping thread to the footside, knot the sewn thread to one in the bundle. Then cut the bundle threads short.
Another method is to use a crochet hook to weave the ends in.
You now know enough to make these laces:
Also look at http://artesaniadegalicia.xunta.es/publicaciones/encaixes the one title Encaixe Galego Tradicional patterns 29, 56 and 58.
© 2012 Lorelei Halley Copying this for personal use is permitted. Copying for any commercial use is prohibited. Copying to another internet site is prohibited.
Posted March 18, 2012. rev May 10, 2012