For those who love hand made lace.
Recently there has been some interest in this form of tape lace which originates in Spain. One of our members, Carolina de la Guardia, has written 3 booklets of patterns, which also explain the stitches used.
Her discussion is here.
As far as I can see (I have not tried this form yet) there are some similarities to Milanese, in that it uses fancy stitches in the braid/tape itself. But it is different in that the patterns don't leave spaces between the tapes. Instead the lace maker has to use tension control and twists to keep the tape centered in the space allowed. (At least this is how it looks to me.)
I have some pinterest boards where I have been collecting photos, which might be useful. The first one includes laces other than Hinojosa, and I have one board which only has Milanese (because it is so popular with lace makers).
https://www.pinterest.com/lynxlacelady/tape-lace-braid-lace/ (Includes some Hinojosa.)
If any of you have made some of this lace, but haven't posted photos yet, please do. Let us try to understand the characteristics and history of this form of bobbin lace.
How many different stitches are there? Have you found it difficult to manage the tension control aspect of the lace? Any comments or questions about it?
I would like to open a discussion about the differences between Hinojosa lace, which it is called in a popular way in Spain: Witch stitch lace", and Milanese lace, especially modern Milanese.
I have realized that because of the similarity of the stitches used in both laces, leads to some confusion at first glance, however they exist important differences:
Milanese lace: Pins are placed closer en curves, this makes a sense of moving in the designs.
Hinojosa lace: Pins are placed evenly all the braid. This makes an appearance of plasticity and a more static design. The distance among pins between 3,5 mm and 4 mm.) is determined by the width of the braid: between 0,70cm. and 1cm.
The way of working curves is different among the two techniques:
Milanese lace: Don't mind if a great hole appears inside curve...
Hinojosa lace: This is one of the goals to be got when learning this technique...Depending on the type of the curve, if it is rounded or more squared, will appear one or two very little holes, that have not be seen at first glance.
Spaces among braids..
Milanese lace: They are accepted some bars or joining unions where different lines intersect. Little spaces are easier to fill in this way.
Hinojosa lace: The technique is stricter...no spaces among braids, not even if an intersection of 3 curves concur at the same point.
With respect to the braid: The design is made with a continuous braid from the beginning of the work until its end.
In traditional Hinojosa, the width of braids is constant, as usually the round designs were drawn in a linear way not geometrical. Nowadays, they can be seen someone in which the braids in the center are narrower because of the geometry of the design.
Milanese lace, in the passing of time, changed and we can find that the first pieces, were coarsed and without spaces, worked in linen stitch with its own different decorations.Then evolved to a more fineness with great spaces in the designs, and little spaces filled with decorated stitches. Later, these spaces were filled with reticular grounds.
In modern Milanese, they are used many fancy stitches. The most important is the gracefulness given by the design and enhanced by the decorative stitches.
In Hinojosa lace, they are about 10 basic points and their different variations:
"Punto de tejido": Linen stitch and all its own decorations: little holes, twisted stitches, cloth divisions, etc.
"Medio punto": Translated to English: "Halfstitch",
"Serpentina": called in English "Meander in braid" (Book of Milanese lace: An Introduction)
"Lleruza": called in English "Figure of eight" "" ""
"Alfiler": : I have no proper name in English for this one
"Piñón": Translated in in English as "Kernel"
"Tul" : Translated to English: "Tulle in braid"
"Zig zag": I have no proper name in English
"Lazos": Translated to English: "Halfstitch in braid"
Both sides of the braid, I personally give the name of foot. This is because they have their own characteristics that combined with stitches give another look to the stitch. This could be the case of "Serpentina" or "Cloth stitch", which combined with crossing pairs at both sides look very different.
I am preparing some pictures to illustrate the different clarifications. Please, give me some days.
In the meantime, your comments will be welcome.
As a complementary information here there are some pictures of the different stitches that I previously mentioned. They are not excellent images...but I hope they will be enough enlightening to see the differences with other braid laces and especially Milanese.
"Alfiler stitch" Diagram, rounded and square shaped curves
Halfstitch diagram. Rounded and suqared shaped curves
"Lazos stitch" diagram. (Half stitch in braid). Square shaped curve
"Lleruza stitch" diagram. Squared shaped curve
"Piñón stitch" (kernel stitch). Diagram, rounded and squared shaped curves
"Zigzag stitch". Diagram and squared shaped curve
"Tulle stitch". Diagram and rounded curve
These are the most basic stitches. I have not included here clothstitch with decorative ornaments that is also very much used.
The footside or edges of the braid, may change too: The last one or two pairs can be twisted, or worked in cloth stitch, or also twisted and crossed as for example:
This edge is worked also with "serpentina stitch". Here a variation of the stitch, twisting the weaver in the center of the passive pairs
What a marvelous resource. THANK YOU Carolina
This is wonderful! Thank you Carolina for sharing :).
I find this lace very interesting and want to learn more about it and try it myself. If I knew about it before, I will blame it on my age for forgetting.
Great information..! I really appreciate it. Now I need to find a simpler book to start making some. Thank you..!
Our RECOMMENDED BOOKS list in our BOBBIN MADE TAPE LACE group has some suggestions.
I have the first of Carolina's, with the basics, a self published pamphlet. Carolina's website. http://www.carolgallego.com/
Regarding Hinojosa Lace. Someone had sent me a video to watch that showed me how to do it. I don't understand the woman's language, but I know enough about bobbin lace to follow it. So here it is for anyone else who may be interested in it. I really enjoyed watching this and I just love it. It's not hard either.
Here is another one where the design is a bit different. I don't understand her at all like I said, so if they are actually the same thing one can be removed.
Sorry, but thank you Carolina. I didn't have time to watch the second one completely after I found it. I have more time today and will definitely watch them again. I am looking for a book that has some of this work in it. I don't have the expertise to go designing my own. Thanks again!