Linen Fabrics?

[Trinity]

I'm getting back into my Hardanger work, and adding reticello and Lefkaritiko to my repertoire, as well.  I'm struggling with finding good-quality linen fabrics for each of them, especially the beige fabric for the Lefkaritiko.  I understand that Access Commodities' Legacy Linen and Studio Linen (which I believe are made by Zweigart) are good choices, but they are hard to find in stock (even from online suppliers), especially in the higher thread counts and in the right colors for Lefkaritiko.  And even Zweigart seems to have multiple quality levels of linen in their offerings.  What do y'all use for your pulled-thread work?

[Claudia Crowley]

This is fairly coarse and large and not quite even weave, but I'm finding it right for learning on. I washed it in nearly boiling water and dried on high heat to shrink it and it seems OK.

https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL041-optic-white-fs...

[Lorelei Halley Administrator]

Many years ago, before the internet, I imported some linen from England to use for a tablecloth, which never happened. I have used the fabric for my pulled thread work. Have I given you these links before? I can't remember.

https://www.nordicneedle.com/fabric 

Cashel linen is a good fabric. I also did a search on      evenweave linen fabric          and found several. It is expensive. That's unavoidable.  This next one may have some sites with fabric.

https://www.pinterest.com/LaceNews/lace-supplies-books-usa-canada/

[Trinity]

Wow, 19/20 threads per inch?  That's definitely coarse!  I browsed through their Web site, and their linen seems to be geared mainly toward making garments and household items, not fine needlework.

Claudia Crowley said:

This is fairly coarse and large and not quite even weave, but I'm finding it right for learning on. I washed it in nearly boiling water and dried on high heat to shrink it and it seems OK.

https://fabrics-store.com/fabrics/linen-fabric-IL041-optic-white-fs...

[Trinity]

Was that imported linen from Thomas Ferguson, by any chance?  Thanks for the links!  The Cashel (28 threads per inch) looks to be a good choice for Hardanger, but from what I'm reading in my book on Lefkaritiko, I need 17 threads per centimeter (about 45 threads per inch) for that.  I may be able to push it to 38 threads per inch, but we'll see once I actually get my hands on some to try out.  I haven't yet drilled down to that level of detail for the Aemilia Ars work, but I would guess it's on the higher end of threads per inch, as well.

Lorelei Halley Administrator said:

Many years ago, before the internet, I imported some linen from England to use for a tablecloth, which never happened. I have used the fabric for my pulled thread work. Have I given you these links before? I can't remember.

https://www.nordicneedle.com/fabric 

Cashel linen is a good fabric. I also did a search on      evenweave linen fabric          and found several. It is expensive. That's unavoidable.  This next one may have some sites with fabric.

https://www.pinterest.com/LaceNews/lace-supplies-books-usa-canada/

[Lorelei Halley Administrator]

It has been so long, I can't remember the manufacturer.

[Lagartija]

DMC Ecru is a good match for Bockens  1/2 bleached linen.  If there is a weaver's guild near you, you could ask if someone would take a consignment to weave some plain weave linen for you.  Although my days of weaving singles linen (1 ply) are probably over, the last time I did so I had 52 threads per inch in satin weave.  This was measured on the loom before fulling.  Although satin weave packs tighter than plain weave, the thread count would be higher after taking it off the loom.  The washing you did to "shrink" the fabric is called fulling, and it is always done to relieve the tension that was on the warp as the cloth was woven.  After fulling, the threads have relaxed to their final position.  Some woven laces (huck weave) don't actually take shape until after fulling.  Most commercial yardage is straight off the loom, sometimes with sizing used to stiffen the threads during the process, so you can assume it will relax, especially in the warp direction, and be a tighter weave after you have fulled it at home.

Anyway, if you are really going for heirloom quality and tradition, this could be an option.  Tell the weaver that you are trying to keep a traditional fiber art alive and you may find a willing collaborator!